Experts say to go with a vitamin C serum—because it really works. They send that list of ingredients to a chemist (with likely no knowledge beyond intermediate college biology) who makes a cream/serum/cleanser that contains maybe 1-5% of those ingredients, and 95-99% filler (thickeners, solvents, preservatives, emulsifiers, etc). While I have full respect for the Oumere blog, Paula’s Choice, and others I have disagreed with in this article, I believe that vitamin C serums are one of the best tools you can have for brighter, tighter skin. The Fenton Reaction: pro-oxydant role of vitamin C. Accessed November 30, 2017. Furthermore, it requires little vitamin C to have it act as a pro-oxidant, and a lot of vitamin C to act as an anti-oxidant. There is also iron and other metals in makeup and sunscreen, which can further compound the oxidizing effect of vitamin C serums. Naturally, the most significant confusion lies in choosing a product based on its price and efficacy. Vitamin C serum can and will act as a pro-oxidant, causing skin damage Ever notice that vitamin C serums turn brown after sitting on the shelf for a month? According to the FDA, iron is a significant pollutant in the air and in the water, and from recent research from the University of Birmingham: "Human activities may have led to an increase of atmospherically soluble iron in the oceans by several times since the Industrial Revolution.". When I look at things from the biological viewpoint, I am primarily concerned with alleviating skin maladies (caused by skin care) and making skin its healthiest using ingredients that are safe, scientific, and effective. Puri, P., Nandar, S. K., Kathuria, S., & Ramesh, V. (2017). One of the most common questions I get asked by customers is, "when is OUMERE going to make a vitamin C serum?" It is not intended as and does not substitute for medical advice. OUMERE products do not contain any ingredients that would cause oxidation to the skin, which is why our products act as anti-inflammatory agents and have been reported to reduce redness, inflammation and improve the signs of rosacea and other inflammatory skin ailments. That brown color happened because the serum oxidized, and oxidation occurs in all serums containing vitamin C. Oxidation is a destructive process (this is how rust occurs), and when you put a vitamin C serum on your skin, it will cause oxidation and skin damage. Using a vitamin C serum will not have the effect of boosting collagen if you are not deficient in vitamin C, but for those who are deficient (at any time) it will desensitize your body from making collagen. Dermatologists, bloggers, and beauty enthusiasts around the world are raving about vitamin C. Why? That product (and a few alternatives) is taken to the heads of the company, they try it out few out for a few days or a week, send the final pick to mass-production, and then you get your final product on store shelves. And I also believe that you shouldn’t use vitamin C serums with niacinamide, but aside from that, I don’t worry too much about combining them with much else. Because v itamin C is a potent antioxidant, it’s a great option to treat and prevent effects of photoaging.A study of 19 patients between the ages of 36 and 72 years who had Fitzpatrick skin types I, II and III, and mild to moderately photodamaged facial skin were assessed. The concern with combining copper and vitamin C is greater (by some research) than combining iron with vitamin C. From Buettner and Jurkiewicz: “But because copper is -80 times more efficient as a catalyst for ascorbate oxidation than iron, in typical phosphate buffers it is the adventitious copper that is the biggest culprit in catalyzing ascorbate oxidation.”. Vitamin C is touted as an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cream. A reader asked me to debunk the article, or at least share my thoughts on it. In the presence of catalytic metals, vitamin C reacts with those metals causing a pro-oxidant effects, specifically, vitamin C reacts with oxygen, producing superoxide that subsequently dismutes to produce harmful by-products such as hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). I'm an outsider of the traditional skin care industry because I do not have a background in business, my background is in biology. 9, (dilute for damaged skin) To rebuild, repair and strengthen skin, including collagen. Applying a vitamin C serum may boost collagen production, resulting in an overall tightening effect. Also, be skeptical of serums that are yellow or brown in color. Before I go into this, yes, I know that I sell a vitamin C serum. Vitamin C Serums Do Not Become Pro-Oxidant, Antioxidants Just Decay. Vitamin C Serum Benefits For Skin. Ceolin, V., Ghia, C. (2014). The purpose of this blog is for skin care-related reviews and tips only. Effects of air pollution on the skin: A review. Science Advances, 2017; 3 (3): e1601749 DOI: 10.1126/sciadv.1601749. Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin that is both created and metabolized by your cells. Inflammation breaks down collagen, and use of UV-R protects your body's collagen in the long-term, preserving skin's youthful appearance. After your skin looks like it has improved, follow the following routine: No. Each molecule of vitamin C contains two electrons available for use. DON’T use serums sold in clear bottles. None of which translates to skin health but rather to marketability. I advise just using the UV-R serum for a couple days because its high concentration of anti-inflammatory extracts will calm you skin down and reverse the oxidative damage caused by the vitamin C serums. Therefore, if one product out of 50 in a brand's line contain essential oils, cayenne pepper, or any other damaging ingredients, then the line is not trustworthy and doesn’t deserve your hard-earned money. Discover the go-to vitamin C serums that top dermatologists and beauty editors swear by. This is due to the pro-oxidant effect of vitamin C in skin care. It is also safe to assume that since water contains iron contaminants, in general, that much of the water used in your skin care contains iron too. Vitamin C serum can become a pro-oxidant when exposed to atmospheric oxygen, so just by living on Earth you are putting yourself at risk when wearing a Vitamin C serum. Puri, P., Nandar, S. K., Kathuria, S., & Ramesh, V. (2017). Buettner, G. R., & Jurkiewicz, B. If you are concerned about collagen growth, use a daily chemical exfoliant. However, when vitamin C absorbs free radicals, it becomes dehydroascorbic acid, and then decays. Adding onto point #1, we can say that many compounds found in cosmetics are further eliciting vitamin C to become a pro-oxidant. But it’s so unstable, it goes bad quickly. A. And my final word is that skin care is just like every other industry out there, and every industry is just looking for the latest and greatest way to take your money. Vitamin C on its own is a potent antioxidantthat soaks up free radicals and prevents the oxidative damage that results from UV light and other environmental stressors, as well as normal biological processes 2. Serum Bioluminelle for balancing skin's oils, anti-aging and locking in hydration, which is key for maintaining skin's structural integrity and preventing damage. Taking a vitamin when you are not deficient in that vitamin means that your body will get rid of the vitamin in the form of waste. Oil Dissolution Theory- To cleanse without damaging the skin, and keeping hydration. Ever notice that vitamin C serums turn brown after sitting on the shelf for a month? Vitamin C is an essential cofactorthat’s required for enzymes that crosslink and stabilise collagen (proly… Air pollution aspects of iron and its compounds. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that soothes your skin and provides relief from skin burning caused by inflammation. When we topically apply vitamin C to our skin, and our skin comes in contact with the air, which contains iron due to pollution, we are inviting a pro-oxidant reaction to occur. Flaky skin is not entirely bad for your skin as it is only dead skin in most cases. When vitamin C acts as a pro-oxidant, the consequences include irritation, inflammation, collagen and elastin breakdown, and acne. One of the Vitamin C serum side effects is the exfoliation. Information posted should not be construed as personal medical advice. Your best safeguard to minimize harm is to avoid molecules that interact with iron to form damaging pro-oxidants. Shop the 29 best vitamin C serums for brighter, glowing skin in 2020. That said, this fact does not make me a completely biased writer — if I found convincing evidence that vitamin C serums were in fact bad for your skin, I would immediately pull it from the market, and replace it with something else. On paper, it sounds like it would be tough to fall in love with Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Serum. The Fenton reaction is the pivotal reaction in the oxidation of membrane lipids and amino acids, and in the reactions where biological reduction agents are present, such as vitamin C. Our skin comes into contact with iron every day. Catalytic metals, ascorbate and free radicals: combinations to avoid. EDTA contains 9.7-19.4 uM of iron per 50mM sample, which is enough to elicit the Fenton reaction described above. Chicago. Often regarded as the gold standard of vitamin C serums (a category that’s constantly expanding, thanks to research about the many skin benefits of the antioxidant), SkinCeuticals’ most beloved product will run you $166 and has become a point of near-obsession in the skincare dupes community, with legions of beauty fanatics searching for a less expensive version that provides the … The article claimed that vitamin C serums are pro-oxidant, reactive with copper/phosphates/EDTA, and will work for a short time and then stop working. If your skin has been inflamed from use of vitamin C serums due to their oxidizing effect, the solution is the following: Give your skin a one week break and then follow an anti-inflammatory skin care regimen. (2016). There is no way around iron pollution coming in contact with your skin. Today it’s vitamin C, tomorrow, who knows. If you notice that your serum has turned orange or brown, it is time to purchase a new bottle. When the first is used, the resulting molecule actually becomes more stable than other free radicals and can serve as a free-radical scavenger. When your collagen levels begin to drop, your skin may begin to sag. (1969). Phosphates are everywhere in cosmetics, from haircare, to foundations and primers, to cleansers, and have a multitude of functions, including balancing the pH of a formula, emulsifying water and oil ingredients, and enhancing the lathering effect of a product. Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, I personally do not use niacinamide with vitamin C. the two compounds combined (L-ascorbic acid and niacinamide) may generate pro-oxidant hydrogen peroxide. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that works wonders for the skin. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology, 83(4), 415. For maximum stability, serums with L-ascorbic have to have low pH levels (less than 3.5), meaning it’s more acidic. To summarize again, the rumor pro-oxidant vitamin C becomes damaging to the skin comes from the idea antioxidants absorb free radicals; after a certain point, they must be supersaturated and release free radicals instead. However, phosphates contain both trace sources of iron and copper, both of which elicit a pro-oxidant reaction from vitamin C. If you ever had to use a certain medication long-term you may have noticed that the effects were most pronounced in the beginning, and waned over several months of use. Press the space key then arrow keys to make a selection. I have yet to encounter a study demonstrating application of decayed dehydroascorbic acid has any negative effect. When mixed together in aqueous solutions (since both are water-soluble vitamins), they form a 1:1 complex that turns the solution yellow, rendering both compounds useless. Vitamin C serum should come packaged in a dark glass or opaque bottle to protect it from light exposure. If twice-oxidized vitamin C (dehydroascorbic acid) is applied topically to the skin, the skin cells will reduce some of the compound back to vitamin C (Journal of Biological Chemistry, 1995). Prevents Changes Due to Photoaging. Vitamin C is a beauty-boosting antioxidant that’s known for stimulating your skin’s collagen production, brightening dark spots, and repairing free … Expertly formulated with vitamin C (from Australian Kakadu plums, no less) means double the brightening. Effects of air pollution on the skin: A review. To avoid these side effects, pick a gentle serum that is formulated for sensitive skin. This brown color leads people to think that the vitamin C serum may be pro-oxidant and damaging to the skin, but this is not the case. In a previous post on ingredient red flags, I mentioned that the best way to delineate between a true anti-aging skin care company, and one that is just out for your cash (at the additional cost of your skin's health) is to look at the ingredients. As beneficial as vitamin C is to a comprehensive skin care regime, not all vitamin C serums are created equal. Account & Lists Account Returns & Orders Account Returns & Orders Its cause is a deficiency in vitamin C. If vitamin C did in fact produce a tachyphylaxis-like effect, with the same dose causing less collagen to be produced over time not only in our skin but in our internal organs and blood vessels as well, we would all be screwed. Small but mighty, this serum gifts skin with radiance and renewed vitality. Use left/right arrows to navigate the slideshow or swipe left/right if using a mobile device. Vitamin C also appears to decrease the loss of water in skin cells and increase skin’s softness and elasticity. So I prefer to use them separately. I don’t worry that much, though, about vitamin C with what are typically trace amounts of ingredients like EDTA, copper, or phosphate. As far as your skin is concerned, vitamin C is "a potent antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals," explains board-certified dermatologist Patricia Wexler. Applying vitamin C to the skin can promote healing and reduce signs of aging. Beat uneven skin tone and dullness with Drunk Elephant’s vitamin C serum, another personal favorite of DeSantis. Let’s, for the sake of brevity, just take 3 common ingredients found in cosmetics: EDTA is a common preservative used in food, household cleaners, laboratory specimens, and in cosmetics. However, some of dehydroascorbic acid will also decay. Vitamin C serum is a natural skin care ingredient that is often found in high-end beauty regimes, and Vitamin C serums, creams and lotions are popping up everywhere. This is not a reaction that needs a very high temperature or a ton of UV light to be induced, either. Preserving collagen is also means avoiding damaging measures such as chemical peels, dermarollers, and harsh skin care. Vitamin C is a long-studied ingredient that’s known for brightening, protecting, and nourishing the skin as a potent antioxidant. On the other hand, I personally do not use niacinamide with vitamin C. Unlike EDTA, copper, or phosphate, niacinamide is generally present in quality skincare products in concentrations of 1-5%. Copper is another ingredient that has generated a lot of buzz as of late because of research that has found some anti-aging effects when topically applied. Each molecule of vitamin C contains two electrons available for use. Chen, C., Fan, S., Li, C., Chong, Y., Tian, X., Zheng, J., ... & Yin, J. J. Due to this, you might get flaky skin during the first few days of usage. You can still use it if you want, but it won’t do as much for your skin and, “very rarely, oxidized vitamin C products can even cause slight yellow discoloration of the skin,” Dr. Hogan says. So when you eat foods high in vitamin C, you get the health benefit of the vitamin donating electrons, and thus preventing oxidation of tissue, lipids, protein, and DNA. Your body does not store vitamins, so taking more when you are already 'saturated' means that no additional benefits are obtained. Suitable for all skin types, this lightweight serum combines 20% vitamin C, alpha hydroxy acid, lactic acid, and mild fruit acids to increase cell turnover and gently exfoliate the skin. Platinum nanoparticles inhibit antioxidant effects of vitamin C via ascorbate oxidase-mimetic activity. The Scientific Papers Supporting Vitamin C Serum's Skin Benefits Are Flawed. 1. A majority of customers who have come to us with damaged skin, including acne, redness and bacterial issues had one thing in common: The use of vitamin C serums. Just don’t pick them off as it can lead to pulling off live skin, … If a self-proclaimed anti-aging line contains cytotoxic agents like essential oils, then they are not motivated by consumer health and wellbeing, they are just a marketing company with a product to sell. Find out more about how vitamin C serum with ferulic acid can benefit your skin. Applying vitamin C to the skin may also reduce redness and … They also tend to be gentler, due to their non-acidic pH levels. Furthermore, you as the consumer need to do your research because in order to have a trustworthy line, all of their ingredients in all of their products need to be safe. Hello, Sign in. Weijun Li, Liang Xu, Xiaohuan Liu, Jianchao Zhang, Yangting Lin, Xiaohong Yao, Huiwang Gao, Daizhou Zhang, Jianmin Chen, Wenxing Wang, Roy M. Harrison, Xiaoye Zhang, Longyi Shao, Pingqing Fu, Athanasios Nenes, Zongbo Shi. If not stabilized, vitamin C and other antioxidants can become oxidized upon prolonged exposure to light or air, turning brown. Once vitamin C is used, more is needed for cells to function properly. Statements made herein have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. It does all of this through topical application. My conclusion from vitamin C serums is that they are the product of viral marketing, and are a gimmick at best and a cytotoxic agent at their worst. UV-R for anti-inflammation and hydration. Some of the common side effects include itching, redness, swelling, and a tingling sensation. One reason why the effects of pharmaceuticals don’t last over the long-term (with certain exceptions) is because the receptors on our cell’s surface become desensitized over time, inhibiting the drug’s effectiveness biologically. Many of these products also cost an arm and a leg. Posts are not intended to diagnose, treat, or cure disease. I've sat in on quite a few meetings with skin care giants during the process of picking a product, and they are all the same. When vitamin C encounters iron a biological reaction, known as the Fenton reaction, is initiated. After loss of a second electron, the resulting oxidation product, dehydroascorbic acid, can be regenerated or may decay (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2003). So if you have any of these skin ailments, and are using a vitamin C serum, then its time to re-think your regimen. Sullivan, R. J. OUMERE Skin Care is not intended to diagnose, cure or treat any ailment. Platinum nanoparticles inhibit antioxidant effects of vitamin C via ascorbate oxidase-mimetic activity. Do you know, a serum rich in the vitamin C also boosts collagen production. Following are the most common ones available on the market: L-ascorbic acid (LAA) Serums with an LAA form of vitamin C as an active ingredient are most popular due to their effectiveness. That brown color happened because the serum oxidized, and oxidation occurs in all serums containing vitamin C. Oxidation is a destructive process (this is how rust occurs), and when you put a vitamin C serum on your skin, it will cause oxidation and skin … What doesn’t happen is a bunch of biologists and associated scientists with profound knowledge on skin care and health pour through countless published studies, weighing the pros and cons of each ingredient, go through countless experiments and human testing, and after several years formulate a product based on their sound results, and then bring it to the head of a company to sign off on. Vitamin C on its own can act as an anti-oxidant. If your serum does contain L-ascorbic Vitamin C, the formula's pH level is key. If not stabilized, vitamin C and other antioxidants can become oxidized upon prolonged exposure to light or air, turning brown. When the … How do I use a Vitamin C serum? (And a damn good one too!) OUMERE doesn't make a vitamin C serum, and here are the reasons why. The only way to safely boost collagen in the body is by preserving the collagen you have, and this is done through healthy lifestyle choices and proper skin care. Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in your skin and is essential for the production of collagen.. Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, co-exist to protect your skin from free radicals, including reactive oxygen species (ROS), that are formed when your skin is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. But we cannot always take a produ… Journal of Materials Chemistry B, 4(48), 7895-7901. du Vivier, A., & Stoughton, R. B. Causing you to age faster, because you are unnaturally stimulating collagen by adding a stressor to the body. To which my answer always, without faltering, is: Never. That chemist is given certain priorities by the higher-ups: feel, smell, appearance. Otherwise ascorbic acid degrades much more quickly, making it inactive and therefore ineffective. Opt for derivatives packaged in tubes and bottles to get the most bang for your buck. Although the Paula’s Choice blog and others disagree with me, I don’t dispute the literature — In the presence of UV light and oxygen, the two compounds combined (L-ascorbic acid and niacinamide) may generate pro-oxidant hydrogen peroxide. 1. First, let me tell you what does not happen. Tachyphylaxis to the action of topically applied corticosteroids. It contains absorbic acid (15% vol.). Skin Inc Supplement Bar Vitamin C Serum Vitamin C derivatives are a good alternative to L-ascorbic acid because they are more stable and resistant to oxidation, so they're less prone to degrading and changing colour in the bottle (or on your skin!). What happens is the opposite: you deplete your body's collagen by using it. I am looking at skin care from a biological standpoint, and not from a marketing one. Receive a complimentary Travel Set with your OUMERE purchase of $400 or more. What really happens is a group of businesspeople, marketers, and advertisers sit in a room, and this panel debates ingredients to put in their latest product based on the trendiest buzzwords and marketable content in the industry at the moment. Despite this, not everyone can reap the many benefits of … they form a 1:1 complex that turns the solution yellow, rendering both compounds useless. Secondly, niacinamide and vitamin C neutralize one another. Chen, C., Fan, S., Li, C., Chong, Y., Tian, X., Zheng, J., ... & Yin, J. J. On their own they are fairly harmless, although for some they can be drying to the skin and hair. Vitamin C serums are used to "promote collagen synthesis", which isn't possible when done through skin care. Why Vitamin C? Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) – One of the most vital ingredients in any effective skin care regimen, Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant and can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles & discoloration. (It’s not that hard to do, honestly.) While in some circumstances vitamin C can act as a pro-oxidant after it reacts with metals and potentially lead to collagen destruction, vitamin C is also known to have effects that are the exact opposite: 1. Talk to our experts by calling 1 … Instead, supplementing with vitamin C throughout your life has been shown to keep scurvy (and other signs of vitamin C deficiency) at bay. Once it gets exposed to light and air vitamin C starts breaking down, and you’ll know it’s gone bad when it not only stops doing all those things you bought it to but also tints your face/clothes/pillows like a bad fake tan. Lastly, niacinamide works best at a slightly higher pH range (4.5-5.5) than vitamin C (4.5 and under). (1996). 3 Benefits of Vitamin C Serum. 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